Deep in the South Atlantic, halfway between Africa and South America, there lies a tiny, stalwart outpost—a pastoral—of 1950s Britain. One of the UK’s few remaining overseas territories, the island of Saint Helena seems to exist both out of place and out of time: where a stroll up the main street is prolonged by morning greetings, and a visit to the bank is delayed as much by the mechanics of paperwork as by the conversation with the bank teller.
Characterised by sheer, volcanic cliffs and dizzying ravines, this remote island fortress is most famously known for being Napoleon’s last place of exile, though it served as a prison for a number of Boer POWs and the son of a Zulu king, as well. In April of this year I made the journey out there, travelling by sea (the island currently has no airport) on one of Britain’s last Royal Mail Ships, the RMS Saint Helena.
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