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Outside the bullring a truck is blocking the street. Its side is branded with the image of a bull. The truck belongs to “Taurica & Simon S.L.: Toros de Lidia”. The doors at the back of the truck are wide open and a crowd has gathered around a man with a forklift. The man begins […]

On the bank of the river Agueda, some twenty-five kilometres from the Portuguese border, sits the small Spanish town of Ciudad Rodrigo. The site of two sieges during the Napoleonic Wars it is now a largely uneventful place with a population of only fourteen-thousand people. Once a year during the five days leading up to […]

‘Welcome to Salamanca! Escúchame. Listen to me. I’m old dog. I have been to all the countries. It’s the same shit everywhere. But this place, Salamanca – I don’t know what it is, I love it. It catch me. Welcome to Salamanca!’ Our new friend, Martin Mateas – or Tío Mateas (Uncle Mateas) as he […]

Above is a quick study-from-photograph of one of the entrances to the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba. Like Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia, the Mezquita-Catedral is an architectural mash-up of civilizations: Islam and Christianity, one writing over the other, a palimpsest. Unlike the Hagia Sophia, which overwhelms you with its open floor-plan and sheer capacity, the Mezquita-Catedral is overwhelmingly […]

‘I’m sure you’ve noticed, but we eat late in Madrid.’ The Welshman’s words came back to me as we crossed Gran Via at around eight o’clock in the evening. We were on our way to meet him for drinks, dinner and what we hoped would be a sampling of the local nightlife. I was already […]